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Ask the
Teamaster


Hong Shi is a Chinese Chef from Fujian, China.
He is currently the Teamaster for Dragon Pearl Tea.

QUESTION:
Where does tea come from?

HONG:
All real tea (that is, not herb or flower tea) comes from the Camellia Sinensis plant, which grows in many Asian countries. This includes green tea, white tea, oolong tea and black tea.

A note about tea terms: most tea terminology originates in China, so there are many spellings, particularly when it comes to specific kinds of tea. You will see spelling variations because these terms are translated from Chinese characters and sounds. Additionally, different regions of China use different spelling conventions.

GREEN TEA AND OTHER TEA
Tea comes in many forms, but all true tea is from the same kind of plant, Camellia Sinensis, which is grown China and other parts of Asia and India. (Chamomile, mint and other herb "teas" are not tea in the sense that they are not parts of the tea plant).


The mature camellia sinensis leaf and blossom

Tea plants grow in bushy hedges that are usually about 2-4 feet high. (These plants should not be confused with the "tea tree," Melaleuca Alternifolia, from which tea tree oil is extracted.) Many legends about the origins of tea exist. One says that the Buddha, fatigued from his meditation, chewed some tea leaves and was revived. For centuries since, it has been China's most popular drink, and treasured throughout India and Europe.

Common teas made from Camellia Sinensis:

Green tea - Green tea is heat-cured using a variety of methods, temperatures and durations to produce different flavor variations. Its composition is denser and more durable than white tea, and its flavor fuller, ranging from sweet to smoky. Green tea, as well as white, are generally made from the youngest leaves.

White tea - the purest form of the Camellia Sinensis leaf, white tea is simply picked, washed and dried, giving it a fragile, flaky texture when dry and a very light gentle flavor. White tea is the least processed of all the teas, and therefore is highest in antioxidant, while it is lowest in caffeine.

Oolong tea - Oolong is usually made from the darker, richer leaves, and is partially fermented before curing, giving it a much richer, more complex flavor and velvety texture. Good oolong is often considered the "champagne" of tea; unfortunately, most Americans never get to taste good oolong, for reasons noted below.

Black tea - Black tea also comes from the same plant, but is fermented, giving it a much darker color and stronger flavor. Black tea is probably the most popular in most western countries due to its richness and higher caffeine levels (roughly half of coffee, though in practice it depends entirely on how strong you make it).

Jasmine tea - Jasmine blossoms are a traditional Chinese flavor that is often infused into green tea, and sometimes other kinds, while curing. Jasmine offers a sweet aroma and, when properly infused, complements the natural tea flavor. Jasmine is the only really common infusion in China; American teas use lemon, mint and other flavors to counter the bitter taste tea gets when it's stale.


Left to right: Green, Oolong, White and Black teas

An even darker-fermented tea found in China but rarely elsewhere is pu'er, a "compressed tea" which is typically in brick format in a variety of shapes.

As a general rule, the darker the tea, the stronger the flavor and higher the caffeine.

QUESTION:
Why are some teas better than others?

HONG:
Like wine grapes, tea has an ideal growing climate in which photosynthesis occurs during the day to produce the best flavor. During the day, photosynthiates are built up in the leaves from the conversion of carbon into high-molecular-weight compounds of flavor, aroma, and structure. But maximum photosynthesis occurs at approximately 87 degrees Fahrenheit. (This is true of most deciduous plants, plus or minus a few degrees.) At over 98 degrees, photosynthesis stops. For glycolosis, which happens at night, the right temperature is also important. In addition to providing the perfect growing conditions, the Fujian Mountains are also very clean. If a tea farm wishes to pay attention to the purity of the soil, water and air, mountain farms are the best spots.

GOOD TEA IS FRESH TEA
Tea is a perishable item and, like coffee or cigars, it is ruined by air, which oxidizes it. Oxidation gives tea a bitter flavor, which is why most straight green tea available in the United States has a bitter aftertaste.

Historically, it sometimes took months and even years before tea reached the consumer, so lemon became a common additive to counter the bitterness. Black tea with lemon or milk and sugar became enormously popular in Europe, and came to the States with the first settlers. However, green tea remained relatively anonymous, mostly experienced only in Chinese restaurants where, stale and most commonly brewed with low-quality tap water, it didn't render a proper impression in America.

With the advent of medical technology examining carcinogens and anti-oxidants, green tea has taken a spotlight in American health studies due to its remarkably high levels of EGCG, a natural antioxidant.

TEA FLAVOR
The main problem with the vast majority of green tea brands available in America is that the tea itself is stale. Just like stale coffee, it loses its flavor and takes on a bitter aftertaste. The only thing that can salvage it is lots of sugar or added flavors to overcome the bitterness, such as mint, lemongrass, and other additives that mask the true flavor. Why is all the tea stale? These days, it's probably mostly about convenience. Tea is put into bags, and the tea is typically powdered. Powdered tea, called fanning, is mostly the tea which left over from processing, and is the cheapest tea. Since powdered tea steeps quickly in teabags, it is a convenient and inexpensive way to ship tea, and it makes it easy to use a portion for a cup. But powdered tea has an increased surface area, and therefore is immediately exposed to the air, which oxidizes it very quickly.

For this reason, the highest-quality teas are never ground; that would be like grinding your coffee months before you use it. The best tea is strictly processed, carefully packaged to be airtight, and used within two years-more preferably, within 12 months- of packaging.

In general, consumers in the US do not get high-quality tea; it simply has not been available, and where it, is it rarely fresh. Real tea drinkers mostly order it from the Internet, which can be tricky since even high-quality tea may be well over a year old already when purchased.

With the growing awareness of whole tea, some stores are making an effort, but good tea is expensive and freshness varies.

QUESTION:
Why is green tea healthy?

HONG:
Tea contains high levels of Epigallocatechin Gallate, which scientists believe fight illness. Chinese people have believed this for thousands of years. Actually, white tea has more of these health properties than green tea since it is even less processed.

As most people have heard, tea--especially white and green tea--has been found to contain high levels of catechins, or EGCG. Human bodies produce unstable molecules called oxidants, or free radicals, which cause tissue damage and cancer. EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate) is a flavonoid that fights cancer at all stages.


Epigallocatechin Gallate Molecular Structure

It is much more powerful than vitamin C or E, which are also cancer-fighting agents. According to the National Cancer Institute, in lab studies green tea catechins detroyed cancer cells before cell damage occurred and inhibited cancer growth.

But how can one tell which teas have the antioxidant properties and which don't? The truth is, deep investigations have only begun to understand the effects of flavenoids on the body, and in the end it is always the longevity studies that tell the tale. Still, certain recommendations can be asserted based on what we know:

  1. Use pure, whole tea. Some of the more serious tea companies provide test documentation to show it is free of pesticide residue. If you find a tea you like enough to drink daily, you may want to have it tested; metal toxins and fluoride have a cumulative, deleterious effect on the human body. Powdered teabags should be avoided because they tend to be stale, low-quality teas. With tea, the fresher the better.

  2. Use pure water. Never drink fluoridated water; there is no evidence that ingesting fluoride has any health benefits, but high levels are toxic and can even be immediately lethal.

  3. Avoid boiling hot water. Drinking scalding liquid isn't good for the body, but steeping tea too hot may cause it to lose its health properties. As with any plant, there is a big difference between the cooked and raw leaves.

TEA AND OTHER HEALTH BENEFITS
In addition to ravaging free radicals and corraling metallic ions, scientists have found that certain flavonoids have antihistamine, antimicrobial, memory- and even moodenhancing properties. Studies published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition and Urology show that green tea may also help weight loss and treat prostatitis, a painful urinary condition. In China, tea has been used for these and many other conditions...for millennia.

More westerners are drinking green tea for its potential health benefits and a new market for green tea is booming. But the green tea available to Americans is generally a poor representation, especially with regard to the flavor and variety that pure green tea can offer.

QUESTION:
What is the best way to steep tea?

HONG:
Many methods of tea steeping are available. Gourmet teas generally should be steeped in glass or procelain to avoid external flavoring from the cup. Plastic, wood and other materials often add flavor to the hot water. Clear glass allow you to see the tea best.

HOW TO TREAT TEA

  1. Use whole tea. Do not use powdered tea bags. In studies we conducted using teabags versus whole teas, the teabags disappointed every single time.

  2. Find a convenient implement. Chinese steeping cups might be the easiest--a porcelain cup with a lid and a porcelain basket inside that you remove after steeping. French coffee presses also work well, and many great teapots are available online.

  3. Use pure water. Tap water contains chlorine and minerals which can drastically affect the taste of the tea.

  4. Infuse the tea with warm water, not boiling. Green and white tea should be in the 160-180 degree range, while oolong and black can be hotter, but does not need to be boiling.


Put the tea in the steeping basket


Put the tea in the cup or pot and add water


Remove the basket and enjoy. Repeat.

QUANTITY, TEMPERATURE AND STEEPING TIME AFFECT FLAVOR
 In addition to the quantity of tea you use in your cup or pot (Chinese brew it much lighter than westerners), the hotter the water and the longer you steep it, the stronger it becomes. Even high-quality tea can become bitter if steep for too long. 1 to 4 minutes is fine for most teas, according to how strong you want it. If you use a large infuser to make a single cup or very small cups, you may need to steep only a few seconds after the initial infusion.

QUESTION:
What is gongfu cha?

HONG:
In China, people serve tea methodically according to tradition. Gongfu cha is the skill of serving tea (gongfu or "kung fu" means "skill"). In general application in China, tea serving is part of several aspects of the culture.

As its background character, tea plays a significant role in certain Chinese ceremonies. In weddings, tea is offered to the parents by the bride and groom, a symbol of their respect and the approval of the families.

In tea shops, tea is served using instruments to avoid touching the tasting cups and teapots, which are usually kept in simmering water and removed with tongs. The finest oolong tea is usually kept refrigerated, as its flavor is the most sensitive to changing levels of oxidization.

A traditional Chinese teamaster set uses a tray with a drain and an urn with handling instruments, which are typically made of wood, including a funnel for adding tea to small pots; tongs for handling the cups; a tea scooper; and a poker and scraper for removing leaves from the baskets. When served to guests, tea is offered with both hands with a respectful bow of the head, which is returned by the recipient.

QUESTION:
Why do you always recommend whole-leaf tea? Is it healthier?

HONG:
Whole-leaf teas are higher quality. In general, powdered tea is the lowest-quality tea available while the more intact leaves most often indicate a higher-grade product. Most importantly, tea that is powdered becomes stale almost immediately because air permeates it, oxidizing it and creating a bitter after-flavor. This is why low-quality tea bags most often will have lemongrass, mint or some other flavor to mask the bitterness of the stale tea. Pure, fresh tea is delicate in flavor, and when fresh whole leaves are infused, each variety and season has its own character like individual wines. Like wine, coffee and other cured produce, air has a profound affect on the flavor and freshness of tea, so it should never be ground until used.

QUESTION:
Can green tea make you high? Is that from caffeine?

HONG:
Yes, green tea certainly can make your mind "high." This is no doubt in part from caffeine, but I also hear from many people that the feeling they get from strong tea is very different from the "coffee buzz" they are used to. It's often described as a clearheaded high, and most people report a smoother "takeoff and landing." Caution is advised; some people have "tea-binged" and stayed awake for days at a time.

QUESTION:
How and where is tea grown?

HONG:
Tea grows in hedges about three feet high, depending on the age and season.


Tea-growing regions (click to enlarge)

QUESTION:
What is the growing season for tea?

HONG:
Typically there are three harvests: spring, summer and autumn. Since almost all tea is grown outdoors, winter isn't a good tea harvest, even though there are many leaves present, because the tea lacks the proper flavor.

QUESTION:
How is tea reproduced?

HONG:
Mostly by cloning (though tea bushes naturally propogate with their own flowers) since tea plants are actually small trees similar to American camellia bushes and graft new plants easily. Tea plants are most productive when they are mature, but most production plants are probably between 5 and 15 years old.

QUESTION:
Why aren't the flowers used to make tea?

HONG:
Chinese people rarely make tea with the camellia sinensis flower because all the good flavor and health properties are in the leaves. In addition, the harvesting of the flower would be very difficult because the sweet, sticky flowers attract and hide insects so well. In organic farming, it is no option to spray chemicals upon the fields. (Even if one did, there would be many dead bugs in the flowers).

QUESTION:
What makes tea organic?

HONG:
Different organic standards and certifications are available in different countries. But essentially it means all tea is grown and processed without chemicals, including chemical pesticides and fertilizing. Organic tea is much less common because it must be grown in the pure soil and air of the mountain areas, making it more difficult and costly to prepare and transport. More about organic certifications.

QUESTION:
My oolong tea leaves have holes in them. Is that from bugs?

HONG:
Unlikely. Many oolong varieties have leaves with holes due to the way they are smashed into small nuggets. The action of the brass machine pressing the leaves into the small chunks leaves perforations. But if your oolong is not a ti-kwan-yin "nugget"-style tea, it is possible that holes are from insects; many organic farms have not mastered natural insect control.

QUESTION:
Does "more potent" mean more caffeine?

HONG:
We think so. More lab tests and data comparisons are underway to quantify these differences. Meanwhile, we are assuming that high-potency tea, especially when kept airtight and fresh, is likely to be higher in all properties, including caffeine. We suggest the Chinese method of naturally decaffing your tea by simply pre-steeping.

QUESTION:
Are products with green tea extract really good for health?

HONG:
"Tea extract" is most often nothing more than stale powder. Typically the low-quality leaf particles left over from processing are simply ground into powder that is added (usually in tiny amount) to ice cream, "iced tea" that never really tastes like tea, and other products. If you want excellent extract, start with excellent tea. Use whole leaves, which have the best chance of freshness, and steep it extra strong. mix with water to make cold tea, pour it into your bath, or rub it on your skin. This is far superior to "green tea" products.

QUESTION:
What should I do with my used tea leaves?

HONG:
I put them in my garden. You can also toss them on your lawn or in the bushes. Leaves with stem, like oolong or pearl teas, tend to clog the sink disposal.

QUESTION:
What is "raw tea"?

HONG:
Most tea we drink is cooked. This is because we use very hot water to steep it. Like any plant, tea is quite different uncooked. Most people have never had raw tea because it is only worth making "raw" if it is fresh, high-quality tea that is pure. To make raw tea (to drink iced), pour hot water over the tea, but then immediately add cold water and refrigerate for 24 hours. The tea takes this long to steep cold. The result is a very refreshing pure tea flavor.

QUESTION:
I keep hearing about stems in a negative way, but my favorite oolong has a lot of stem. Is stemmy tea indicative of cheap grades?

HONG:
No. While this is commonly found to be the case, one should not overgeneralize about a particular tea standard because most of them have exceptions. For example, many teaas require stems to achieve exactly the right flavor. In particular, oolong teas that include a lot of stems typically have additional sharpness not found in oolongs with less stems. In fact, if you like this tea, its stem content is likely appropriate for your taste.

When looking at new-leaf teas and needle tips, generally one would not expect to find stems. So the answer is, whatever your taste, but some teas almost always have stems and some do not. A more clear indication of quality in the appearance is the intactness of the leaves; the smaller the leaf pieces, the lower the grade in most cases.

QUESTION:
Which teas have lowest caffeine?

HONG:
Well, all real tea has some caffeine. But you can remove much if it by steeping it for 60 seconds or so, during which a lot of caffeine comes out, then pour it out and steep it for reals. (Remember, Chinese tea experts always pour out the first steeping anyway.) As a rule, the longer you brew your tea, the higher the caffeine level. In addition, you may feel "high" from white and green tea; despite their lower caffeine levels, people usually report that they feel very energized and alert when they drink green or white tea. In addition, we notice that Westerners typically make their tea stronger than Asians.

QUESTION:
How many times should I steep the tea?

HONG:
That depends on your taste as well as the temperature of the water, length of infusion, and quantity of tea used. For example, a large amount of tea steeped a short time is equal to a smaller amount that is steeped longer. I would recommend trying your favorite teas in more than one way to discover your favorite.